Ashford
Just a short drive south of Dublin along the N11, Ashford County Wicklow is a charming village that serves as one of the most picturesque gateways to the “Garden of Ireland.” While many travellers speed past on their way to Glendalough, those who take the time to pull into Ashford are rewarded with some of the most spectacular horticultural and natural landscapes in the country. From world-class Robinsonian gardens to dramatic forest gorges, Ashford offers a perfect blend of peaceful rural life and outdoor adventure.
A Brief History of Ashford County Wicklow
The history of Ashford County Wicklow is deeply entwined with the Vartry River, which flows through the village and has provided the lifeblood for its development over the centuries. Historically, the area was a significant crossing point, and by the 19th century, it became a focal point for the Anglo-Irish gentry who were drawn to the fertile soil and sheltered microclimate of the Vartry Valley. It was during this Victorian era that the village began to take its modern shape, with the establishment of notable estates and gardens that still define its character today.
Perhaps the most significant historical legacy in Ashford is the Walpole family’s influence. In the 1860s, Thomas Walpole established Mount Usher, transforming an old corn mill into a botanical masterpiece. This tradition of stewardship has ensured that Ashford remains a lush, green sanctuary. Throughout the 20th century, the village evolved from a quiet agricultural community into a sought-after residential area and a premier destination for day-trippers seeking a more refined experience of the Wicklow landscape.
Visiting Ashford County Wicklow: Getting There and Around
Visiting Ashford is remarkably convenient, whether you are coming from Dublin City or exploring further into County Wicklow. Located approximately 45 kilometres south of Dublin, the village is easily accessible via the M11 motorway. For those using public transport, the Bus Éireann 133 route provides a frequent service connecting Dublin Airport and the city centre directly to Ashford village.
The village itself is compact and best explored on foot, especially the stretch between the main street and the entrance to Mount Usher Gardens. However, to reach the more rugged attractions like The Devil’s Glen or nearby horse-riding centres, a car or a sturdy pair of hiking boots is recommended. Ashford maintains a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, with several local shops and services catering to both residents and visitors.
Mount Usher Gardens: A Horticultural Haven
No visit to Ashford County Wicklow is complete without spending a few hours in Mount Usher Gardens. Consistently voted as one of the best gardens in Ireland by BBC Gardeners’ World, Mount Usher is a prime example of a “Robinsonian” garden. This style, pioneered by William Robinson, champions a naturalistic approach where plants are allowed to grow in a way that mimics their natural habitats rather than being forced into formal patterns.
Spanning over 22 acres along the banks of the Vartry River, the gardens are home to over 4,500 species of plants and trees from around the world. The gently flowing water, decorative bridges, and hidden pathways create an atmosphere of profound tranquility. After wandering through the exotic groves, visitors can browse the Avoca Garden Centre and retail space on-site, which offers a selection of Irish-made crafts, textiles, and delicious artisan foods.
Exploring The Devil’s Glen
If Mount Usher represents the cultivated beauty of Ashford County Wicklow, The Devil’s Glen showcases its wilder side. This spectacular glaciated valley features a dramatic gorge where the Vartry River plunges over a 30-metre waterfall. The Devil’s Glen Forest Park offers two main walking trails: the Seamus Heaney Walk and the Waterfall Walk. The former is named after the late Nobel Laureate who lived nearby and found inspiration in the local landscape.
The Waterfall Walk is a relatively easy trek that follows the river upstream through ancient oak and beech woodlands. One of the most unique features of the park is the “Sculpture in Woodland” collection. Since 1994, various artists have been commissioned to create large-scale wooden sculptures that are scattered along the forest floor, creating a fascinating open-air gallery that merges art with nature.
Top Visitor Attractions in Ashford County Wicklow Ireland
- Mount Usher Gardens: A world-renowned Robinsonian garden featuring over 4,500 plant species along the scenic Vartry River.
- The Devil’s Glen Forest Park: A dramatic wooded gorge offering scenic hiking trails, a spectacular waterfall, and hidden forest sculptures.
- Sculpture in Woodland: An outdoor art gallery within The Devil’s Glen, where contemporary sculptures are carved directly from native timber.
- Devil’s Glen Equestrian: A premier horse-riding centre located just outside the village, offering trekking through the beautiful Wicklow countryside.
- Hunter’s Hotel: One of Ireland’s oldest coaching inns, famous for its traditional afternoon tea and beautifully maintained riverside gardens.
- The Vartry Reservoir: Located just a short drive uphill from Ashford, these reservoirs offer expansive views and peaceful walking paths around the water.
Wining and Dining in Ashford
Despite its small size, Ashford punches well above its weight when it comes to gastronomy. For a traditional pub experience with high-quality gastro-pub fare, The Chester Beatty Inn is a local institution. Named after the famous American mining magnate who resided in the area, the inn offers a cosy atmosphere, an extensive whiskey selection, and a menu that highlights local Wicklow produce.
For those seeking something lighter or a family-friendly lunch, the Avoca Garden Café at Mount Usher is hard to beat. Known for its fresh salads, hearty soups, and legendary cakes, it provides a bright and airy setting overlooking the courtyard. Another popular choice is The Woodpecker Bar & Restaurant, which serves classic Irish dishes in a friendly, community-focused setting. If you’re looking for a historic dining experience, the restaurant at Hunter’s Hotel maintains a charmingly “old-world” vibe where time seems to have stood still.
What to Do: Activities and Adventures
Ashford is an ideal base for active travellers. Horse riding is a major draw here, with several stables offering everything from beginner lessons to cross-country treks. The proximity to the coast also means that the beaches of Brittas Bay are only a 15-minute drive away, providing the perfect contrast to the wooded hills of Ashford.
For golfers, several championship courses are within easy reach, including Druids Glen and the European Club. If you prefer to stay on two feet, the local walking routes extend beyond the forest parks into the surrounding hills, offering panoramic views of the Irish Sea to the east and the Wicklow Mountains to the west.
Interesting and Useful Information
Film Connections: Did you know that the Ashford area has been a frequent filming location? The lush greenery and historic estates have provided backdrops for various film and television productions, including scenes from Excalibur and The Count of Monte Cristo.
Ashford Studios is located here. Large parts of ‘Vikings’, ‘Wednesday’, ‘The Tudors’, ‘Reign’, and ‘Cocaine Bear’ were filmed here.
Seasonal Tip: While Mount Usher is beautiful year-round, it is particularly spectacular in late spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in full bloom, or in autumn when the deciduous trees put on a fiery display of gold and red.
Sustainability: Visitors are encouraged to follow “Leave No Trace” principles when exploring The Devil’s Glen to protect the sensitive woodland ecosystem and the local wildlife, which includes deer, red squirrels, and various bird species.
